On the second morning of our stay in Bad Ischl, the hotel breakfast was truly a sublime experience. There was a coveted Italian prosciutto slicer, and the variety of breads in the basket, like sesame bread, brown bread, and the tantalizing aroma of croissants, whetted our appetites. The sweets corner was simply heavenly! True to its reputation as the “land of cake and coffee,” Austria offered an overwhelming array of choices even in the morning. Unfortunately, it was impossible to taste everything in one morning, but the richness and the delicate variety of flavors seemed to symbolize the region’s rich culinary culture.
One reason Bad Ischl is particularly well-known is because it was once a retreat for Empress Elisabeth (Sisi). The restaurant we visited on our first day turned out to be a famed establishment patronized by the emperor himself! Empress Elisabeth first visited this place after her marriage to Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria. Their engagement ceremony took place at a church in Bad Ischl, followed by dinner in Hallstatt. Our tour, tracing their historical footsteps, felt like a re-experience of their romantic journey. Now that I think about it, I recall our guide sharing such stories… Writing this blog, connecting these fragments of history that I hadn’t noticed at the time, feels like traveling through time. (Laughs)
Leaving behind the tranquil atmosphere of the spa town, our next destination was the Melk Abbey. As a Japanese, I didn’t have a concrete image of a monastery, but what appeared through the bus window was a yellow building of unimaginable size. Its grandeur stood out even from a distance, appearing almost as if it emerged from another world. This spectacle would be unimaginable not just for Japanese but for anyone.
“Is that Melk Abbey?!” I exclaimed in my mind. The architecture of the monastery seemed to reach towards the sky, distinctly setting itself apart from the surrounding landscape. At that moment, I was simply overwhelmed by its scale, making it yet another impressive sight on our journey.
Our arrival at Melk Abbey was greeted by perfect autumn weather! It was ideal for capturing moments with a GoPro. The monastery, situated at a higher elevation than expected, stood out even more against the blue sky with its majestic yellow structure. I couldn’t help but wonder, “Is this a real monastery, or a set from a movie?” It seemed almost too perfect. The surrounding palm-like plants momentarily gave the illusion of being in a Hollywood studio. (Laughs)
Now, with excitement in our hearts, it was time to pass through the gates and step inside the monastery.
Being morning, the area was enveloped in silence, creating a sense of time standing still. We could feel the stillness and the weight of history surrounding us. As seen in this photo, it was just my mother and me, and we were able to take pictures without anyone else in the frame, as if the goddess herself had smiled upon us. The selfie stick with a Bluetooth shutter button was a huge help. (Laughs)
A young, tall Austrian man served as our English-speaking guide. Being able to directly understand the explanations in English was a delightful moment for me. (On the right is Mr. H, the veteran tour conductor who guided us all the way from Narita and back.)
Melk Abbey is of a scale comparable to a small Austrian village, featuring 497 rooms and 1,365 windows, with its roof covering an area of about 2.2 hectares. Currently, the school within the monastery has about 1,000 students enrolled, utilizing numerous rooms including 34 classrooms.
Many nobles, including Mozart and the Austrian Archduchess Maria Theresa, have stayed here. The Imperial Rooms on the second floor of the monastery display magnificent works of art. The marble hall, where the monks entertained noble guests, featured musicians playing in a separate room. This hall is decorated with trompe-l’œil paintings and a faux ceiling, giving it a three-dimensional appearance. (Researched via ChatGPT4)
Since photography is prohibited in the monastery’s library, I’ll include a free photo here.
The library has 12 rooms with inlaid woodwork, housing over 100,000 ancient books and 1,186 manuscripts. The monks studied by candlelight at night, which was conducted through six hidden doors in the bookshelves. (Researched via ChatGPT4)
I was stepping into one of the world’s most beautiful libraries. The ceiling was adorned with paintings that appeared three-dimensional, and walls were lined with rows of ancient books. In the quiet air, I wondered how those past scholars absorbed their knowledge. While some learned Christian teachings through the paintings, others who could read and write delved deeply into their areas of expertise. Imagining them, I was immersed in deep contemplation.
I couldn’t help but reflect on our privileged modern situation. We live in an era where we can freely pursue what we wish to learn. Even documents written in unknown languages can now be instantly translated thanks to AI advancements. I felt a deep gratitude for the efforts and achievements of past learners and fortunate to be born in this era.
Then, walking through the long corridor, we headed to the chapel. Its opulence, from ceiling to details, was breathtakingly beautiful yet harmoniously unified, making me sigh. Photography was prohibited here too, so I’ve asked ChatGPT4 to generate an image of what it might look like.
Indeed, an image close to what I had envisioned was generated. After our fulfilling visit to Melk Abbey, both in spirit and appetite, we proceeded to have lunch at a modern cafe located just near the monastery.
During this trip, it was our first time trying a fish dish! It felt like the smoothest meal we’ve had so far. (Laughs)
For dessert, it was gâteau au chocolat again! You can probably tell we’ve been indulging in cakes daily, starting with the gâteau au chocolat, then apricot crepes, and gâteau au chocolat again. Admittedly, we couldn’t finish them all, and eventually, I just savored the chocolate-coated parts. (Laughs)
Our next destination was a cruise through the Wachau Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site! Surprisingly, this tour included a cruise! With a journey of 1 hour and 25 minutes, I’m curious about what kind of boat it will be. I’m already imagining what to wear for the cruise.
Upon arriving at the dock, I wondered, “Is that our boat?” Several boats passed by us, but none seemed to be stopping at the pier.
While we were waiting, a man in his 30s, who appeared to be Asian, approached us. A woman from our tour who spoke English began talking to him, and we learned an unbelievable fact. The cruise had been canceled! He had also intended to board the cruise but was informed of the cancellation and came over to check. Interestingly, he turned out to be in his 50s, which was a surprise in itself!
So, instead of being informed by our tour guide, it was this passerby who conveyed the news of the cancellation. At this point, our tour guide realized he had several missed calls from about two hours earlier… After contacting the travel agency, the cancellation was confirmed.
Then, the tour guide came to me and asked, “Do you know how to use an Android phone? I want to set it to ring for calls. It’s a company phone.” Although I use an iPhone, I was able to change the settings for him and was glad to be of help.
During the trip, my mother was happily chatting with friends of her age. (Laughs)
Then, we called back our bus driver and decided to head to Dürnstein, the destination we were supposed to reach by boat.
The labor laws for bus drivers in Austria, as well as the strict rules about how long a bus can stay parked (only 20 minutes), make it challenging to be flexible in such situations. However, the bus promptly arrived, and we set off for Dürnstein, which we were originally supposed to visit by cruise.
From the bus window, we could see Dürnstein Castle, towering not on a small hill but halfway up a mountain. I listened intently to the tour guide’s narration, my thoughts drifting to history.
“The castle belongs to Richard Sissicin,” she explained. Puzzled by the unusual name, my curiosity piqued, and I decided to ask ChatGPT, “Who is Richard Sissicin?” The answer turned out to be Richard the Lionheart. I couldn’t help but burst into laughter, alone. (Laughs)
This castle ruin is where he was imprisoned by Leopold V of the Babenberg family of Austria, from 1192 to 1193. While the cruise would be refunded, my interest had shifted from the canceled cruise to Dürnstein Castle and the amusingly mispronounced ‘Richard Sissicin’. (Laughs)
To be continued in Day 5 (Part 2)
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